Conditions:  Good paved roads, light traffic, very little shade, pancake flat for nearly the first 60 km.

Angokor Wat at Sunset

After a few too many rest days, flying to Siem Reap, Cambodia, touring the Angkorian temples and eating our way through the streets of Siem Reap, we finally made our way via a small Toyota Camry to the town of Battambang for an afternoon.  From Siem Reap to Battambang it’s 160 km by going up National Highway 6 towards Poipet and then in Sisophon turning left down Nat’l Highway 5 to Battambang.  The road is in great condition but extremely busy and uninspiring.  I had absolutely no yearning to be riding it. 

I had read about Battambang as a romantic coming of age arts town in the New York Times Travel section.  Indeed, it has some potential.  With the Sangker river running through the center and old French colonial buildings and street lamps, it has a very lazy feel.  We enjoyed being out of the tourist chaos of Seam Reap and into a town authentically Cambodian.  After a ride about town and a few refreshments at the Riverside Balcony cafe (fresh lime juice, sugar and vodka), we ended up at our hotel pool chilling the afternoon away.

The road to Pailin

Due to the heat, we woke up early to get an early start on our ride to Pailin.  Today would be a scorcher.  From the Battambang center, you weave your way down the river and head south west on highway 57 direction Pailin.  We lost sight of any road signs and took some very interesting back streets out of town.  This is where all the local school kids were walking to school; motorbikes riding four across going to work. 

I never learned how to say ‘hello’ in Khmer (the Cambodian language) like we did in Laos.  In fact, one of the first words Cambodians are taught when they learn how to speak is ‘helloooooo’.  They even say it to each other.  The very next words they learn is ‘one dollah’.  This is because for most of the country, the US Dollar has taken over the Riel as their national currency.  Ironically, however, when you pay in dollars, you get Riel for change.

In any event, we had the usual hordes of kids running along the road wishing us ‘hello’ pretty much for the first 15 km out of town. 

Why stop in Pailin? Onward to the border.

I was having a really rough day until I realized 35 kays into the ride my brakes were rubbing.  Once we cleared up that minor issue, we sailed at about 30 km/hour on the silky smooth roads.  Except for a few regions, Cambodia is pancake flat.  We didn’t gain more than 3 feet in elevation in the first 50 km.  This made for some long, straight sections with the sun beating down our backs and a lot of shifting around in our saddles to change the friction.  We were looking at record timing, however, and realized we’d make it to Pailin well before lunch.

We didn’t know until we got there that this region’s number 1 economic activity is Cassava growing and processing.  Cassava is the plant most known for tapioca but being processed now as a biofuel for the production of ethanol.  The entire way from the big temple just outside of Battambang to Pailin we watched what essentially looked like slave labor chipping away at the Cassava, drying it, moving it and storing it.

In spite of the new apparent wealth in cities like Siem Reap and Phnom Phen, where you can get just about anything your heart desires, rural Cambodia is a completely different story.  Unlike Laos, there is no refrigeration outside of the cities.  Every thatched hut selling drinks had a large cooler with three-day old ice water trying to keep things cold.  Luke warm was the only temperature I could find in a drink and most products were unrecognizable.  In Laos, my favorite pick me up along the road was a Nestle espresso roast drink.  It’s served cold like a Starbucks Frappucino.  In Cambodia, no such thing….not even a Coca Cola in most shacks.

Landmine Clearance Billboard

We skipped eating and sailed into Pailin at roughly 83 kms.  There were supposed to be a few good guesthouses/hotels but we didn’t see much of anything.  This is the last real town before you reach the Thai border 20 km away.  Its current claim to fame (if you want to call it that) is it’s the town where many of the former Khmer rouge leaders (Brother No.’s Two and Three) retired and await international tribunal.

It all sounded a bit creepy to me and since the day was still young (albeit hot) we decided to push on to the border.  We heard there were some big casino hotels at the border with A/C and entertainment for all the Thai men who crossover to gamble on the weekends.

From Pailin to the Phsa Prum/Ban Packard border the road begins undulating and it’s very remote.  An excellent crossing point if you’re on bike as there’s really no traffic at all.  With 1 km to go there wasn’t a building in sight and I chuckled at the thought of seeing a casino in the middle of this rural countryside.  Sure enough, as we came around the last bend, there it was, the 7-story Crown Diamond Casino and Hotel.  Just down the street is the newer Victoria Casino hotel.

So far neither one of us has come down with any food ailments.  If it’s going to happen, it will be tomorrow.  We both ate a very late lunch at the hotel coffee shop.  I was so hungry I kept eating it even though I knew it was bad food.  Dinner tonight was a Cornette ice cream bar.  There’s nothing to do in this border outpost so we spent the night reading and resting for tomorrow.

Phsa Prum, Cambodia to Chantaburi, Thailand 72.5 km/902′

Conditions: Excellent aspahlt roads with wide shoulders.  Road widening is going on on the 317  to make it even wider.  Hot and muggy all day.

Phsa Prum Cambodia - Thai Border - waiting for stamp

After a few delays this morning in the toilet, neither one of us wanted to risk breakfast at the hotel coffee shop.  We found a small outdoor café at the Victoria supermarket and unsuccessfully tried to get fried eggs to give us a little fuel.  Nobody speaks English around here so instead we got fried egg sandwiches on white wonder bread smothered with Mayonnaise and fresh lettuce.  So much for breakfast.

From there, it’s 50 meters to the border crossing.  At Cambodia departures desk, it took a painfully long time.  I assumed the guy was looking for some green backs but eventually he stamped us and we rode into Thailand.  It’s a bit confusing which way to go but eventually we followed a monk to the desk for our arrival cards and very efficiently got stamped into Thailand.  Nobody asked for proof of onward travel as had been reported by others.

Immediately, the tone was different.  The first patrolman said ‘Welcome to Thailand’ and it felt welcome indeed.  It smelled different, was hotter, more tropical and cleaner.  I could tell it was going to be a good day.

The 24 km from Ban Packard (border Thai side) to Pong Nam Ron is lovely.  A nice wide road with turns, undulations and Thai jungle.  Traffic is minimal which is a good thing because it took us a while to figure out that they drive on the other side of the road here.  We saw only 1 accommodation (a home stay) on the Thai side and wished we had made it to there last night.

In Pong Nam Ron is your first opportunity to get Thai Bhat at the ATM on the corner next to the cute old man making delicious Thai café with condensed milk.  We stopped for money and refreshments and at the T turned left.  From Pong Nam Ron to Chantaburi it’s 40 km.  With some serious mountains looming in front of us we had no idea what to expect.  The 317 road was immediately busier but there was a fairly good shoulder.  I need to go back and look at my Garmin but it was almost 40 km downhill!!  We were in heaven.  At first there was a very steep descent of about 10 km and the rest of the day it was about a -1% grade.  With the momentum of our weighty bikes, we made it to Chantaburi just in time for lunch.

Asked Monks to prayer for our long ride tomorrow.

We almost pushed on to the beach but decided to stay here.  This has got to be the most unexpected surprise of a town.  It’s known as the gem capital of Thailand and, indeed, the international gem show finishes up today.  But what’s more spectacular is the waterfront street, one of the first streets of the town.  With a mixed Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai and French history, the row of houses and architecture is extremely unique.  The artisans are along the street now with their homemade Durian cookies, artwork, gems, mat weaving and even cafes.  This is an off-the-beaten tourist paths town that I would highly recommend for a day.

The only other significant side note is I think I tore whatever meniscus I have left in my knee while using the squat toilet.  Tomorrow will be a tough ride unless we can find some Voltaren.  Oh yeah, and we have no maps of Thailand which I hope won’t be an issue.  It’s not like we can read the road signs anyway.

Hill People

Day 2- Kiouw Kacham to Kasi Hot Springs – 75 km/1235m (4050’) vertical.

Conditions: Generally good asphalt with some dirt on the hairpin turns.  Weather was perfect with coolish windy conditions in the morning and overcast skies in afternoon.

The age old question presented itself early this morning as chickens  and roosters kept crossing the road in front of us.  I was too tired to ponder the answer.  In fact, if I had a gun, I would have shot them all.  You see, a party ensued last night at our guesthouse with a cast of nameless characters: the wealthy guesthouse owner from Vientiane, his speechless father-in-law from the hill country, a policeman from Vietnam, an incredibly drunk brother who tried to serve me food from his chopsticks, a Japanese woman and her Australian boyfriend and a few others who were never introduced.  Everyone had a bit too much homemade whiskey Lao.  What else was there to do in this town?  So, we promptly passed out after our long day of riding at about 8:30 only to be awoken at 3:30 by roosters crowing right outside our door.  After that, there was a strange cacophony of unpleasant bathroom noises that had a searching for coffee by 5 a.m.

The Road to Phoukoun

In spite of the early wake up, we had a slow start which continued for most of the day.  We stayed along the ridge of the mountain with some pesky undulations, big vistas and a strong head wind.  The two most significant climbs of the day occurred at 30-something kilometers and 42 km respectively, with a valley full of black pigs in between.   Both climbs seemed to deal out a healthy punch which, in retrospect, was probably more a result of yesterday’s ride than actual steep incline.  There a few small villages at the start of each climb where you can find a thatched hut with cold water and drinks.  A cold Fanta propelled us all the way to Phoukoun for lunch.  Phoukoun is 50 km south of where we started and is an incredibly dusty junction town where Nat’l Highway 13 and Nat’l Highway 7 merge.  There are 4 dated  guesthouses-cum-restaurants at the junction (all of whom were out of chicken) and a lively farmer’s market.  Further south, if you have the misfortune of being stuck in Phoukoun, there are some much nicer, newer guesthouses that would be worth a few extra bucks.

Enjoying the descent after hill country

After a hearty bowl of beef noodle soup, we followed one of the many Chinese car rallies out of town.  It’s the week for Chinese New Year and hundreds of Chinese tourists travel in convoys of expensive and completely out of place cars.  Other than the Chinese, traffic on the road is minimal. Drivers give bikes plenty of room to feel unthreatened.  The descent from Phoukoun doesn’t start for another 10 km but eventually the descent and most unbelievable scenery unfolds.  We were at the top looking across into an ampitheatre of jagged limestone karsts.  As we descended closer to the karsts we entered a jungle of green ferns, banana trees and palms.  Before reaching Kasi Hot Springs, there is one final ascent of 15%.  It’s small but unexpected in the afternoon.   

Kasi Hot Springs resort is a stretch.  It’s a series of 5 wooden ‘rustic’ bungalows with toilets and cold water shower for 60,000 kip/night.  They’re blessed with a view of the mountains and a man made bathing pool they refer to as the ‘hot springs’.  I spent the afternoon watching the Lao people meticulously bathe themselves in the hot springs while Rob caught a quick nap before our delicious dinner across the street of stir-fried rice with peanuts.  Note to cyclists:  There is only one option here for dinner and breakfast.  It’s also where you pay for your room.  Nobody speaks English but it’s easy to figure out and the food is delicious.

Day 3: Kasi Hot Springs to Vang Vieng – 78 km/487m (1600’)Conditions:  It was warmer than the other days because of our lower elevation but a cloud cover kept it ideal until about noon.  Road was good to bad.

The Road to Vang Vieng

It’s unbelievable how you can sleep 10 hours on a bed as hard as a concrete block – but we did!  We raced the Australian cycling family staying in the other bungalows to the restaurant for breakfast but ultimately we all sat together and scarfed our yummy omelettes and slowly sipped our Café Lao (strong coffee with condensed milk.  The Aussies were going the opposite direction so we swapped stories of what was in store for the day.  Rob and I knew most of our serious climbing was over but what we didn’t know was road conditions would deteriorate from good to bad to worse.  One Aussie had broken 3 spokes the day prior.

The ride from Kasi Hot Springs to Kasi (20 km south) is absolutely lovely.  We were in no hurry and stopped for several pictures.  For the most part, you ride along what is now the valley floor with the jungled walls rising straight up on either side.  This continues with some variation andsmall climbs and descents until we reconnect with the NamSong river.  With the river on our right the road is largely flat the rest of the way into Vang Vieng.  The problem occurs, however, about 15 km out when the road completely deteriorates to mostly dirt and pot holes.  That alone would not be so bad.  But inevitably, in the middle of these sections, a convoy of Chinese tourists would pass kicking up a plume of dust in our faces.

Arriving in Vang Vieng was a shock to our systems.  It’s the party and backpacker capitol of Laos where 18-year olds stumble around high on ‘happy meals’.  Most are bandaged from cuts acquired while drunk floating down the river and they all enjoy staring at old American cartoons playing endlessly on the TVs in bars.  In need of some more than basic necessities, we checked into the beautiful riverside Villa NamSong Hotel.  We spent the remainder of the sunset hours chatting with a Dutch couple who we passed earlier today on the road who are riding from Luang Prabang back to Bangkok.  Enjoying the A/C and real shower tonight!

Day 4 – Vang Vieng to Phonhong – 87 km/540m ascent

You desire to know the art of living, my friend? It is contained in one phrase: Make use of suffering. – Henri-Frederic Amiel

I knew before we left there’d be days like these.  Days where the excitement of a new country wears off, the scenery is non-existent and the ride one long slog.  This is suffering.  Not the type of suffering that comes with a long climb or intense race.  No, that type of suffering that Henri-Federic Amiel equates with being fully alive I would revel in.  This suffering is of a completely sort.

The day started with a civilized breakfast at Villa NamSong resort overlooking the particularly scenic river.  This lulled us into a natural hypnotic state where we lost track of time and didn’t hit the road until 9:00 – our latest start so far.

Rob amused!

We’d read several reports on today’s ride as being mostly downhill and fast.  All failed to mention that the road conditions were horrendous and never let up.  Starting the day it was 80% off road, dusty, pot-holey, traffic laden, trash covered crap.  Ending the day, it wasn’t much different.  With entirely uninspiring conditions, it was all I could do to stay focused to watch the line for the best section of dirt road, avoid the pot holes and stay upright.  The Chinese car rallys were out in full force and we passed several Laotian weddings which all featured really bad music, money cars and lots of village people.  We broke the misery by amusing ourselves with the village names like Hin Tit which was followed by the town of Phone Ho.  What scenery existed was covered completely in brown soot.  At some point in time we stopped to buy face masks.  We’ve both developed a chronic cough resulting from the inhalation of so much dust and diesel fumes.

We met at least 4 riders moving in the opposite direction and enjoyed swapping stories and sharing in the suffering.  The English couple were going on 10 months of bike travel and still loving every moment.

As the day waned ever so slowly, the only thing I could do to stop the suffering was begin to day dream.  We had heard of an eco-resort by the lake in Phon Hong that I was imagining as our last luxury hotel.  It wasn’t until we arrived here that we looked at a map to discover there is no lake in Phon Hong.  The one guesthouse in town looked even less appealing than our ride so we searched around and discovered a new guesthouse in Phon Hong just before the center and to the right up a hill.  Mony Guesthouse and Restaurant (that’s how it’s spelled) is a new place with AC, private nice bathroom, satellite TV and a place to hang your wet clothes out back.  The cold shower was definitely the one and only highlight of the day.  We dined again tonight on stir-fried chicken and veggies, a healthy portion of sticky rice and some good cold Beer Laos.

A side note for cyclists.  We debated long and hard whether to take cross bikes or mountain bikes on this trip.  Every kilometer of today’s sufferfest we were so happy to be on our mountain bikes.  Even happier with our TravelContact tires.  Thanks Dad for finding those.

 Day 5 – Phon Hong to the Capital City, Vientiane – 74 km/133m ascent (436’)

Conditions – Slightly better road conditions but the intermittent dusty roads continue all the way into the Capital city.  Traffic increased exponentially the closer we got to town.  Overcast skies kept the heat down.

Today’s ride went fast.  Most of the day was spent standing on the pedals, as our bums are bruised from the days prior.  There’s nothing particularly romantic, picturesque or inspiring about the scenery.  A few green rice paddies but nothing that compares to other countries we’ve traveled. 

Because there are so many food stalls and businesses along the roadside, the owners spray down the red dust with water.  So today, in addition to being covered with dust, we were covered in a red mud that stuck and spotted everything. 

Up until this point, we had not quite figured out our next move.  We wanted to stop in Vientiane for a few days and then hopefully fly with our bikes to Siem Reap, Cambodia.  We checked online in Vang Vieng for online tickets but with one flight/day, they were showing it as being sold-out.  If and when we could get tickets, we still didn’t know whether we could fly with our bikes unboxed.

Four kays outside of Vientiane proper we passed the airport and decided to check it out.  I found some lady selling tickets at something called the Lao-American Individual Enterprise and bought two tickets for the 1^st direct to Siem Reap. 

We continued along the Mekong into downtown Vientiane, stopping for lunch of amazing Indian food before searching for a place to stay.  I was starving and become cranky when not fed.  We tried calling a few interesting looking hotels about availability and rode to one higher-end hotel with availability.  Rob watched the bikes while I walked in.  I could tell by their first impression that there was no way they would let us in.  The ‘open’ room suddenly became ‘we are completely full’ when they took one look at my soot covered body, muddy clothes and dusty bikes.  After seeing myself in the mirror, who could blame them.

We ended up down the road and a bad value guesthouse and made it a point to change hotels for the following night.  On our walk to the tourist office, we passed a bike shop who happened to have 2 bike cartons for us.  We paid them 50,000 kip/box for the peace of mind knowing that our bikes could get on the plane with us.

Dinner tonight was at the expensive l’Opera restaurant at the fountain in town.  We were both craving something other than a variation of chicken, rice and veggies.  I had an amazing pizza with Laotian sausage and Rob enjoyed his lamb pasta.

The next day was spent bumming around Vientiane.  As capitals go, it has a small town feel.  Many caucasion tourists walking around.  I highly recommend the City Inn Vientiane Hotel for a stylish hotel, excellent value and friendly service (once you get the Indian manager to smile),

Day 1 - Nat'l Highway 13 to Vientiane

There’s a difference between a rude awakening and a healthy challenge.  Today was a mix of both.  Our 8:15 departure from the Merry Lao Swiss Guesthouse in Luang Prabang was as smooth as silk. Satiated on a breakfast of fried eggs and French baguettes, we easily navigated the morning traffic away from the Mekong River, past the stadium and onto National Highway 13.  This is the only road running lengthwise north-south down the entirety of Laos.

The weight of my fully-loaded bike, Ganesh II,  concerned me slightly.  For riding in Laos and Cambodia, we converted my Dad’s old blue and yellow Trek 7500 aluminum mountain bike by installing a back rack for 2 panniers, a handle bar bag and some awesome hybrid style Continental tires called TravelContact.  With all my meager belongings stuffed in the panniers, the bike becomes weighted or ‘loaded’ averaging roughly 55 lbs.  Loaded touring is a breed of cycling unto itself.  One in which my only training for this trip amounted to out dated experience and 30 mile road bike rides in San Diego.  It didn’t take me long to recognize my preparations were wholly insufficient for cycling Northern Laos.

Leaving Luang Prabang, there’s a short hill, followed by a series of small undulations paralleling the Nam Khan river.  This lasts for a delightful 24km until the rude awakening appeared out of nowhere.  The road pitches up for what amounted to a 2-hour climb with no respite.  The distance became irrelevant next to the sections of 11, 13 & even 16% grades.  It didn’t take either one of us long to slip into our granny gear and stay there.

I love climbing!

Moving at a snail’s pace gave me ample chance to soak up the surrounding forest and high mountain wooden villages.  Almost the entire road was lined with drying ‘Khem’ grass fronds to make brooms.  For days this appeared to be the primary economic activity of women and children. Starting with the sunrise, they’d slap the frond against the road, roll out the excess ‘dust’ and then place them along the road to dry. 

Also during the rude awakening I noticed a surprising amount of NGO money being funneled into the higher villages for building new homes.  Laos is one of the poorest and ‘least developed’ countries in the world.  But one-by-one the grass shacks were being replaced with small (almost charming) concrete structures.

With an unceremonious ending to the 2-hour slog, Rob and I happily downshifted into our nearly 14km descent complete with hairpins and stunning views.  At 56 km we entered one of the most charming thatched hut villages along the river where we stopped long enough for a swig of water and scarf our baguette sandwiches. I was happy to see refrigeration has finally made its way to these remote areas.

It was here, with a full understanding of what the Laos mountains could deal out, the challenge of the day began – a 23 km climb of 3,000’+.  I tried to distract myself with comparisons to Mt. Ventoux but that actually made me feel worse.  I changed courses mentally and began to soak up all of the saving graces: banana plantations, stilted mountain villages, women nursing, kids running out to high five us and almost sing ‘Sabai Deeeee,’ men with guns, women with machete all of whom were quick to smile.

Our chef - first night in mountains!

I would be glorifying it to call Kiouw KaCham a ‘town’.  It’s a POS stop just after you crest the climb and start your way down.  It consists of 3 restaurant/guesthouses/pottie stops where they advertise clean bathrooms to passerby’s at 10,000 kip a dump.  Rob assured me he had selected the best guesthouse in town.  It rambled through a kitchen, past the caged monkeys and wandering roosters, next to a fire with a big pot of something to a back area of concrete cells with a hard bed, stained blanket, ‘house rules’ about not making sex movies and, outside the door, a squat toilet and a bucket of cold water as a shower.  I can only hope that this will be our all time ‘low’ of the trip.  At the same time, I was quite proud of Rob to be able to endure these conditions.  But then again, we had no options as it was already nearing a beautiful sunset.

Off to ‘bed’.  Thanks Mom for your silk sleeper.  It was a necessity tonight!

The Svelte Look

Logically, we know what to do on the bike.  Put in your base miles a good 3-4 months before the trip.  Next, work on your climbing with standing intervals in a big gear or into a head wind.  Closer to the trip, add at least one 4,000′+ climb/week.  Lastly, make sure you have consecutive days in the saddle (saddle soreness will take down even the best of riders before the climbs do).

There are many variations on a training plan and multiple meters to measure your progress. But the single most effective thing a client can do to prepare for the hills, off the bike, is drop weight.  In many cases, this can be more important than a strict plan of hill repeats.  You’re thin enough you say?

All one needs to do is look at the average weight of the ‘climbers’ on the professional teams.  If you didn’t know they were professional cyclists, you’d think these men were holding an anorexia anonymous convention.  The top 5 climbers on the 2012 Radio Shack – Nissan-Trek team AVERAGE a hefty 63.8 kg!!  That’s 140.4 lbs!!  How many of you men are 140 lbs?  Ok, I know, we don’t get paid to ride a bike.  And weighing in at 140 isn’t exactly the most attractive look on men.

But, if your dream cycling vacation includes riding the Mortirolo, Mt. Ventoux or L’Alpe d’Huez, then one of the least time consuming and effective thing you can do to prepare is drop the weight.

Lastly, do as I say, not as I do.

Typical road traffic - Pyrenees

There it is.  The word is officially out.  Nine years after my first cycling trip to the Ariege there it appears on the world cycling map in the 2012 Tour de France route!

It’s not the first time the Ariege region has featured in a Tour de France.  When it does, however, it usually passes through the obvious places…Foix, the Col de Port, St. Girons.  This time it’s different.  This time the ASO has introduced a little known climb, the Col de Péguère, into Stage 14 of the 2012 Tour de France route.  The Col du Peguere??!!  Most cycling pundits have never heard of it and even locals are unsure of  its whereabouts.

On October 18th, when the 2012 Tour de France route was announced, hundreds of folks critical to the sport drove, flew, trained and swarmed to the Ariege to see what this climb is all about.  On their way to the picturesque mountain hamlet of Massat, they likely followed the river up and past dozens upon dozens of tempting turn-offs for largely undiscovered climbs (e.g. the Col de Rille, Col de Saraille, Col de la Crouzette, Col des Jouels to name a few favorites).    It didn’t take them long to figure out that they were ‘discovering’ a special place for cycling that, until the announcement, remained largely off-the-beaten tourist path.

Most visitors and cyclists to the Pyrenees will focus on the famous passes — the Tourmalet, the Aubisque, the Col d’Aspin and maybe even Hautacam.  But further east, bordering Spain near Andorra, there is a vast network of tertiary roads boasting little known climbs that the local French cyclists (and people in the know) live for.  Being the 5th least populated region in all of France, you understand quickly why there are no cars.

Eventually, those looking for the ‘new’ climb passed through the hamlet of Massat.  From here, they took the well-known Col de Port up to kilometer 6 before scratching their heads, searching their maps and asking locals if the narrow trail to the left is really the turn-off for the new Tour de France climb – the Col de Péguère?

Descending the Peguere

It’s understandable.  I had the same reaction the first time I saw it.  Covered in a thick canopy of wild trees , the Col de Péguère from the 6 km turn-off is 3.5 km of a paved tiny forest road with an increasingly steep vertical pitch.   There’s no room to drive up, no room to pass, no room for a Tour de France publicity caravanne and definitely no room to practice your ‘paper boy’ switchbacks to help you up.  In other words, it’s exactly what you’d expect of a perfect climb in the Ariege.

Ever since that first visit in 2003, I’ve returned every year either with groups or by myself.  It’s my jumping off point for the season in France where an endless day riding can easily slip into weeks.  Life is undoubtedly slow in the Ariege, much like my pedal stroke.  There are no trendy towns or chic resorts. Each unspoiled mountain hamlet boasts at least one B&B, one boulangerie and a coiffure.  Food is mountain hearty and delicious: local fish from the rivers, cassoulet, garden fresh salads and, of course, the duck, duck and…well…duck.

Not much has changed in the heart of the Ariege, Pyrenees in the last 10 years.  In fact, not much has changed since the Cathars were here in the 1200′s.  My French friend in Toulouse calls the Ariege ‘Third World’.  I call it a cycling mountain paradise of infinite proportions.  The Areige is best kept a secret to everyone except serious cyclists.  Let’s hope the  2012 Tour de France doesn’t change that.

Schleck on the Port de Bales

To experience the Ariege first hand on a supported trip with locals, join us for our 2012 Chasing the Tour trip starting on July 13^th.  We’ll be cycling up the Col de Peguere before the pros and taking in many of our other favorite unknown climbs in the region.

Details of the Ariege:

Location.  The Ariege is in the central Pyrenees of the southwest region of France bordering Spain.  It’s the 5th least populated department in France (out of 100).

Getting There.  Part of it’s special charm is its remoteness.  Fly into Toulouse and take the train to Foix or rent a car and drive to St. Girons.

Where to Stay:  You can easily spend 1-2 weeks in the Ariege and never ride the same climb twice.  I like to stay in the heart of the cycling near Massat, Oust, Ax-les-Thermes or the outskirts of Foix.  If you prefer softer, gentler stuff, stay near the town of Mirepoix.

What To Do:  In addition to cycling, there are endless hikes, walks, running trails and farmers markets to explore.

Staying Connected.  Cybercafes are non-existent.  Wifi has reached most of the remote regions and it’s best to bring your own computer/tablet if you want to stay connected.

Guides and Bike Rentals in the Pyrenees:   If you’d love to visit but can’t take our Tour de France bike tour in July, contact us and we can help you with local guides and bike rentals — julie@ridestrongbiketours.com.

1. Garmin Edge 800 – $500. There’s no reason a bike GPS/computer should cost more than one in your car.  This one does but it’s well worth it.  Your cyclist will use it each and every ride and dazzle you each night with statistics like %grade, total ascent, average speed and beats per minute.  The Garmin Edge 800 is easy to use with a touch screen, good battery life and great mapping functions that will get your loved one home at night.  Tip:  If they are traveling to Europe this summer on a bicycle vacation to Italy or cycling in France, also buy them the European map card.
2. Lululemon Studio Pant II – $109 (For her). For the special woman in your life who would travel the world if she could, this is the perfect ‘pack and go’ pant she can wear in any country in any weather.  This pant is perfect for the plane, the train and casual dinners alfresco in Provence, France.  Probably the only place it won’t go is into a Michelin Star restaurant in Paris.  It doesn’t wrinkle and will dry in a few hours.  Don’t have hemmed, buy one size up.
3. AeroComfort SciCon Soft Bike Case – 499euro. The soft bike case with wheels from SciCon is outrageously expensive at 449 euro but the ease of packing and traveling with this case justifies the price.  I don’t own one but have seen several clients wheel their bikes off a train or out of a taxi without a struggle.  Simply unzip the bag, raise your saddle and you’re ready to ride.  Very little bike disassembly/assembly  needed.  I can’t guarantee durability but I will say clients have used this case from Hong Kong to France and back with pricey carbon bikes with no problems.
4. Kindle Book Reader – $79 and up. If your traveler doesn’t have one already,this is a no-brainer for anyone who travels and loves to read.  Keep luggage light with unlimited books stored on your ultralight Kindle.  The price is right and now it’s easy to gift and share books on Amazon Kindle.  Ranging from $79 – $199 you can get as many features and functions as your budget allows.  I like to keep things simple and use mine exclusively for reading and sometimes playing games.
5. Craft Baselayer $45 – $85. Most non-cyclists aren’t aware that we cyclists wear undergarments while riding.  Well, sort of undergarments.  A high-quality wicking baselayer top is extremely useful in hot weather as well as cold.  Craft makes some of the best base layers from summer sleeveless to full length mock turtleneck tops.  If you’re riding with us on the Giro d’Italia trip, we recommend the zero extreme wind stop short sleeve for your trip.
6. SpeedPlay Pedals – $335 and up. You have three contact points on the bike and your pedals are probably the most important contact point as the others.  Speedplay swept the podium in the 2011 Tour de France.  More professional teams are using Speedplay pedals than any other pedal on the market.  They’re small, light and sexy as pedals can be with a choice of colors to match your bike.  Get your cyclist the limited edition Tour de France zero Titanium pedal as an extra special treat.
7. Patagonia Capelene 2 light weight zip neck – $49. The man or woman traveler in your life will love this lightweight quick drying, go anywhere top.  It’s billed as a baselayer but I wear mine for everything: running on cold mornings, cycling base layer, into my sleeping bag for bed and traveling year around.  I buy 2 every year and wear them out.
8. Prescribed Solutions Up the Anti Physical Sunblock SPF 30 Tinted Sunscreen –  $50. I have the pleasure of meeting many talented people in my business and many of the botox, eye and skin surgeons on my trips don’t walk out the door without sunscreen.  One that caught my eye last year is made by a dermatologist.  It’s an oil-free tinted sunscreen bronzer so you can actually look good covered in the stuff.  Highly recommended stocking stuffer for anyone on your shopping list.
9. Peloton or 3/GO Magazine subscription – $27.99 for print and digital. Fuel for the Ride is their tag-line and inspiration is what they deliver.  It’s the freshest new cycling magazine on the market available in print and digital complete with full coverage of European cycling, racing, first ever photos and quirky stories.    This is perfect gift for your spouse, friend or even clients.
10. Ride Strong Bike Tours Bike Vacation – $2900 and up! For the strong cyclist in your life, they’ll never forget a dream trip to Europe cycling in the French Alps, Italian Dolomites or following the Tour de France.  Call us to learn more about which trip is best for your loved one or we can design a custom trip for your whole family and friends.  We’ll handle all the details.  An ‘experience’ gift guaranteed to bring a lifetime of memories.

First Ascent of Galbier 2003

I was dozing on the train to Grenoble when the enormity of the Alps filled the eastern window like an IMAX theatre screen. I’d cycled what seemed like half the world, but I’d never seen giants like these before. The mountains rose dramatically from a lush valley floor forming a natural ampitheatre of sharp peaks still doused in winter snow. Involuntarily, my throat went dry and quadriceps started twitching in nervous anticipation of riding the most famous line-up of Tour de France climbs: the Glandon, the Telegraphe, Col du Galiber, L’Alpe d’Huez and Col de la Croix de Fer.

It was mid-June and I was on one of my research trips to become intimately familiar with the iconic climbs of the high French Alps. Although I had studied all the profiles and heeded the warnings, nothing had prepared me for what my body and all my senses would encounter.

Most cyclists to this region, the Dauphine Alps, must at some point pass through the mountain village Bourg d’Oisans. In addition to hosting the start of the Tour de France 20 times+, Bourg serves as a summer vacation destination for cyclists with over half a dozen epic loop rides directly from the town. During summer, Bourg buzzes with cycling enthusiasts from around the world who meet for a morning croissant before tackling L’Alpe d’Huez or a post-ride beer.

While Bourg is the base, cyclists don’t linger long. Starting with the roosters, a group of local cyclists ride south for an easier day climbing Col de la Morte followed by the Col d’Ornon. Anxious first timers can be found sneaking out to get a head start spinning up the legendary, L’Alpe d’Huez. Clubs of local cyclists donning their team kits are seen all day long forming a pace line on the D1091 before turning right up the deceivingly difficult Col du Glandon followed by the Croix de Fer.

There’s something about being in the world capital of iconic climbs that gives all those who visit seemingly unlimited energy. After climbing what would tap out most mortals, cyclists head to the east side of the National Park where bigger challenges like the Col du Galibier (2645 m), Col de la Croix de Fer and Col de Madeleine await.

Fresh Mountain Berries for Dessert

Despite the star line-up of world class climbs, the French Alps remains surprisingly true to its mountain traditions. After a day in the saddle, most local auberges are serving up appertifs followed by La Tartiflette, a mouth-watering local specialty made with the cheese from the local farms. Desserts are rich with mountain berries, usually picked that afternoon.

Visitors like myself will undoubtedly check off the famous climbs first before discovering the ‘secret’ local cols that tempt you at every turn . It’s here I fell in love with the Alps and return every year.

Practical Information:

To get to the region:
Fly into Lyon and train or bus to Grenoble
Fly into Geneve and train or bus to Grenoble
Fly into Paris and train to Grenoble

Galibier Summit 2011 8:00 a.m.

Accomodations and Bases:

Grenoble:
We prefer to spend a few days on either end of the trip in Grenoble for a little French city life and a day ride into the stunning Chartreuse mountains.

Hotel Victoria – one of the least expensive best value hotels in town. Just a stone’s throw from the medieval center, the Hotel Victoria is simple, spotless and owned by an avid local cyclist and his friendly wife.

Hotel Mercure – slightly further from town but still within walking distance. One of the few hotels with modern amenities in the region. Comfort, gym and buffet breakfast.

Bourg d’Oisans region:
The first thing you need to know is that there are NO good hotels in the town of Bourg d’Oisans. None. Stay at one of the new chambres d’hotes just 2 km from town or in Allemont just 6 km down the road.

With a new race director at the helm, organizers have promised a ‘safer’ tour with less transfers.  But Italians can’t do boring and safe is a relative term.  Instead, in their never ending quest to upstage ‘Le Tour de France’, Giro organizers have recently leaked some granddaddy stages.

Most impressive and impossible for most of us mortal cyclists is the penultimate stage on Saturday May 26th that finishing at the summit of the Passo Stelvio (2757m) .  Starting on the deceivingly flat roads of the Val di Sole, the course proceeds to go straight up and straight down for the next 218 km.  There won’t be any early successful breakaways because the last two climbs will require over 100% of their effort.  Never mind the Passo Tonale and Aprica, they appear early on.  It will be after 150 km of riding and climbing that the pros face the ominous wall of Mortirolo.  Ascending from a non-traditional mule path, the pass (also referred to as the Passo Fauppo) climbs 11.4 km at an average of 10.4% pitch.  Averages are just that and don’t be surprised if they look a little slower than usual — the slope max’s out in places at 21%.  From the Mortirolo, it’s a nice descent into the valley then a gradual 30 km up all the way from Grosetto through Bormio where they begin the final ascent of the Passo Stelvio.  The Stelvio needs no introduction.  If the day’s efforts don’t get the riders, the altitude in the last few kilometers of the Stelvio will!  In total, the etappa (stage) will total over 19,000 ft (5,900m) of vertical ascent.

Summit Passo Giau

If the penultimate stage is the most difficult stage EVER in the Giro d’Italia, the Dolomitii stage on Wednesday, May 23 is definitely the most beautiful.  Set in the heart of the craggy Dolomitii peaks, the 2012 stage climbs 4 scenic passes in succession: the Valparola, Passo Duran, Staulanza and out of this world gorgeous Passo Giau.  It finishes with a 17 km fast descent into the pearl of the Dolomites, Cortina d’ Ampezzo!  Stunning as the stage is, it will also prove a formidable challenge for the last week of the Giro.  The Giau itself  is fairly relentless with an average grade of 9.1%.  If only the riders had a chance to stop and check out the view.

Other rumors continue to dribble out including an early time trial in the Veneto region before heading down the Adriatic coast.

Stage May 23, 2012 Giro d'Italia

We’ll likely have two bike trips to ride and watch this unforgettable year of monumental challenges for the Giro d’Italia 2012.  Climbers will want to join us in the last week for the Dolomites and Italian Alps challenges.  Our first tour will likely incorporate our Prosecco/Monte Grappa tour with a the time trial in Veneto.   We’ll be posting our trip as soon as the official Giro d’Italia route is announced.  Keep an eye on www.ridestrongbiketours.com.

All Grappa in Bassano del Grappa

I used to have fond memories of Grappa.  It reminded me of a time well over a a decade ago when I had a love affair with a man who preferred it.  Something about getting the quickest buzz with the least amount of alcohol.   In its simplest form, Grappa is fire water made from the leftovers of the winemaking process (the stems, skins and seeds of the grapes).   While there are now thousands of different varieties of Grappa, they are all stiff ranging between 35% – 65% in pure alcohol.

Bassano del Grappo in the northern Veneto region of Italy is the heart of Grappa making country.  I would argue the most prominent and potent feature of Bassana del Grappa is not the Grappa itself but the mountain rising up just to it’s north – Monte Grappa. Unless you’re an Italian World War 1 buff, hiker or professional cyclist you probably haven’t heard of this massif.  But amongst locals and cyclists in the know, Monte Grappa is a climbing paradise.

Views of Veneto plains (KM 5)

I woke this morning in my inexpensive Italian villa in Crespano del Grappa and decided I’d give Grappa a go.  I had a rough plan of riding up to the summit, descending a different route and continuing onto a more gentler 80 km day through the towns of Asolo and Bassano for a beer.

Of the alleged 9 different paved ascents of Monte Grappa, I got my first taste just 6 km down the road in Semonzo.  As I geared down, a rush of adrenaline filled my legs.  Feelling fresh I spun past several other cyclists (albeit older and wider than myself), soaking in the panoramic views of the Veneto valley below. Between each hairpin (‘tornate’ in Italian) where the road gave respite, the slopes got steeper and shots of adrenaline were running out.  Spray-painted on the road were various kilometer markings to the summit but they counted up, not down.  I had no idea how long I’d be at this slog.

Monte Grappa-Views looking back

After the Vacancsoleil rider motored past but before  I had a clear view of the summit I resolved that my choices were limited.  I could only go so fast.  There were more ups and downs that really give you a false average profile and then turning the corner I could see several switchbacks to the top.  The last few kilometers riders approach from all sides and it’s a bit reminiscent of Ventoux only more confusing and more beautiful.

To the left of the parking lot there’s a large war sanctuary holding the bodies of 10,000 Italian soldiers killed during the battles in WW1.  On the other side are more tombs of Austrian-Hungarian soldiers, statues and flags.  I opted to take in only the endless views.  The chain of the Dolomites to the north and the plains of Veneto and even Venice to the south.

Now, it was time to find my alternate route down.  From the cemetery I retraced my steps 3 km down to a largely unmarked intersection.  There was no indication that this road would not turn into an unpaved goat path so I hesitated long and hard until 5 road cyclists flew past.  I followed.  The road didn’t turn into a goat path but it did turn into a paved mule path.  It’s so narrow that a small car and a cyclist cannot share the road simultaneously.  Add in the wild mules, rock tunnels and sheer cliffs and the scenery was off the planet.

The Mule Path - more mules in tunnel

But I had had too much Grappa.  This became abundantly clear when the mule path ‘descent’ kicked back up into a 13-15% grade.  I had absolutely nothing left.  At the top of the second surprise ascent, the gang of 5 stopped at yet another unmarked intersection where a smaller road fed into and literally off of the cliff.  After a brief Italian pantomime discussion the boys confirmed that this trail was my road down!  They warned me of 20% grades and the such so I took a big gulp, dropped to my bars and took notice of the sign saying something to the effect of ‘this road is not maintained, go at your own risk’.   I went.

After the first few hair raising turns and 20% grades down, the road narrowed into the tunnels of maple trees and pines.  Perhaps it was all the war history I was reading about but it reminded me of being on the Ho Chi Minh trail.  Simultaneously, I felt like I was in the middle of nowhere but still on top of the world.  A few more unmarked turns, good guesses and a car full of Austrailians looking to go eat some snails, I landed right back in Crespano del Grappa and hung up my riding shoes for the day.

From Semonzo, the climb of Mt Grappa is 19 km and a gain of over 5,000′.  It’s as stiff as the liquor by the same name and, if you’re like me, you’ll get a much better buzz.

Gulp - the way down!

Perhaps an addition to Ride Strong Bike Tours Italy trips for next year?

The Turn Off for the Mortirolo

Most people who climb the Mortirolo base themselves in Bormio and enjoy a 30 km gradual descent to the start of the climb in Mazzo.  It’s tempting to turn off in Grosio which, geographically, is before Mazzo and also takes you up one of the three ascents of the Mortirolo.  But that’s not the real deal.  So, joining 90% of the other cyclists, I start the climb from Mazzo but not before one last shot of espresso at the ‘Funny Bar’ just 50 meters from the start.  I now wonder whether that name isn’t an insider joke amongst locals.

The Mortirolo Summit!

Of the numerous conversations and incoherent thoughts I had with myself in the 1hour and 50 minutes to the top, most are not for public sharing.  Every now and again I ‘came to’ and noticed things like how easy a 10% grade felt, how much I enjoy the strong scent of pine, how absolutely beautiful the Mortirolo is and how much I actually want this climb to go on forever.  Yes, it’s a sickness.  But I was in good company with several other sick cyclists testing their strength and, more importantly, perhaps their mental fortitude on one of the greatest climbs in Europe.

For the Mortirolo climb profile.

Our next ascent of the Mortirolo will be early September 2011 on our Ride Strong Bike Tours trip to the Dolomites and Italian Alps!