If you’re an avid cyclist this might appear to be a dumb question.

Those of us that ride, not only have a love affair with our bikes but also with the distant places our bikes take us.  This is particularly true when we have the opportunity to ride the sacred streets of places like Tuscany, Italy,  Girona, Spain or the Basque Country.  So, if you have an avid cyclist on your Valentines Day list and want to give them an extraordinary gift, blow them away with a romantic bike vacation this summer.  We promise, they’ll love YOU even more.  Below is a list of our fave bike vacations that fit into the category of ‘Romantic’.

1.  La Rioja & the Basque Country - Off the beaten tourist path are two regions that let wine, food and slow rural roads rule.  Start in La Rioja where the wine rolls on and off the tongue .  Ride the romantic Camino de Santiago pilgrimmage road into Pamplona for tapas like none other.  Stay in a luxury Basque-style auberge nestled in the green rolling Basque hills.  Finish the trip with a ride into Espelette where spicy dark chocolate tempts every passing cyclist.

2.  Provence & Mt. Ventoux - With Cotes-du-Rhone wines, quintessential French villages and chambres d’hotes du charme, a Provence & Mt. Ventoux bike vacation is a lover’s delight.  Love can be challenging so we go easier on the rides!  Off the bike lover’s activities can  include cooking classes, wine tasting or lounging at a hip streetside cafe.

3. The Dolomites & Italian Alps - Is there any place more romantic than Italy?  Keep love adventurous by riding into the mountains that havemade the Giro d’Italia famous.  We’ll ride iconic climbs all day, enjoying Italian Prosecco, gelato and other aphrodisiacs at night.

Make any of these trips even more romantic by booking your own private or custom trip!  Email us at info@ridestrongbiketours.com

I’m still learning French. In fact, I will always be learning French.   Just this morning, for instance, I had a French lesson while climbing the Col de la Forclaz.

The French verbs ‘connaitre’ and ‘savoir’ are always tough. Both connaitre and savoir mean ‘to know’ and it’s highly confusing to know when to use one or the other when referring to a person, place or thing. One thing I do know is that the first condition to knowing a climb is to ride it. You can read a map, study a profile, follow it on GPS and even drive it. But until you feel every contour under your own power on two wheels, you won’t know the road at all.

If I ever knew the south side of the Col de la Forclaz, then I’ve buried it so deep I don’t remember it. The last time I was in Lac d’Annecy in the French Alps was several years ago. Many of my friends talk about the Forclaz like it’s a legend. They remember every switchback and the three areas of +11% pitch. They talk about it with such awe and respect that I woke this morning in my cozy Swiss-style chalet on the eastern bank of Lac d’Annecy a bit nervous about my summit.

Downing a café allongé, I clicked into my Speedplays and enjoyed a brisk, mostly downhill ride from Menthon Saint-Bernard to the town of Faverges. In Doussard I connected to the bike path and hooked up with a small peloton of local French cyclists in team kit. Happily, I allowed my bike to be sucked into their slipstream for a free ride. There were loads of cyclists going every which way, however none that followed me as I turned hard left for the 8 km ascent of the Forclaz. I wonder why?

As every good climb in France should, there’s a refreshing cold water supply at the base of the Forclaz spouting out of a quintessential French fountain. Stopping to fill my bottles, I struck up a French conversation with another thirsty cyclist cut like a knife. He asked the usual questions like where am I from and why would I come all the way to France to ride a bike. It was the next line of questioning that made me nervous (and gave me a French lesson).

He asked incredulously if I was really going up the Forclaz. ‘Oui, monsieur,’ I said with a smile. Then he asked, ‘Est-ce que vous CONNAISSEZ la Forclaz? ‘ Ahaaa!!! That’s how to use it….am I familiar with this climb…do I really know it? I responded confidently with the proper use of connaitre vs. savoir, ‘No, monsieur. Je ne connais pas la Forclaz.’ Then he asked without insulting me whether I ride very much.

‘Oui monsieur, j’aime le velo. Je fait de velo beaucoup and I want to CONNAIS this climb’. With that he looked at me as if I were absolutely crazy and pointed his bike down the flat path towards the hamlet of Balmette. I simply shrugged thankful for the French lesson and shifted all the way down for the slog.

I don’t consider myself a pessimist but I like to expect the worst. When you expect the worst then you have infinite possibilities to be pleasantly surprised. All my life I continue to be pleasantly surprised by big and small things. I was surprised to make it through high school alive and surprised to graduate college. I was more than a little surprised to have passed the bar and surprised to qualify for Boston. I was surprised to get my first client and am surprised by each tour’s success. I am surprised when a plane takes off on time and surprised when I get on the right bus.

Today, I was surprised by the Forclaz. I was so worked up over the difficulty of the climb, I was convinced it was a monster.

Admittedly, the start is rough. It kicks up without warning to over 11%. But then it’s downright pleasurable with the requisite number of fun switchbacks, a long section of relief, fresh new pavement and just when you start cursing yourself for eating the full fat locally produced Haute Savoie yogurt for dessert, the climb is over just like that. I spent more time at the top chatting with other cyclists, watching the parapenters, soaking in the view and sipping my café allongé then I did actually sweating and burning fat.

Now the next time someone asks whether I know the Forclaz, I can say ‘Oui, je connais la Forclaz tres bien!’

By, Julie Gildred, founder Ride Strong Bike Tours.   The Col de la Forclaz is one of the many sublime Alpine climbs we know and enjoy on our Lake Annecy European bike tour.

Typical road traffic - Pyrenees

There it is.  The word is officially out.  Nine years after my first cycling trip to the Ariege there it appears on the world cycling map in the 2012 Tour de France route!

It’s not the first time the Ariege region has featured in a Tour de France.  When it does, however, it usually passes through the obvious places…Foix, the Col de Port, St. Girons.  This time it’s different.  This time the ASO has introduced a little known climb, the Col de Péguère, into Stage 14 of the 2012 Tour de France route.  The Col du Peguere??!!  Most cycling pundits have never heard of it and even locals are unsure of  its whereabouts.

On October 18th, when the 2012 Tour de France route was announced, hundreds of folks critical to the sport drove, flew, trained and swarmed to the Ariege to see what this climb is all about.  On their way to the picturesque mountain hamlet of Massat, they likely followed the river up and past dozens upon dozens of tempting turn-offs for largely undiscovered climbs (e.g. the Col de Rille, Col de Saraille, Col de la Crouzette, Col des Jouels to name a few favorites).    It didn’t take them long to figure out that they were ‘discovering’ a special place for cycling that, until the announcement, remained largely off-the-beaten tourist path.

Most visitors and cyclists to the Pyrenees will focus on the famous passes — the Tourmalet, the Aubisque, the Col d’Aspin and maybe even Hautacam.  But further east, bordering Spain near Andorra, there is a vast network of tertiary roads boasting little known climbs that the local French cyclists (and people in the know) live for.  Being the 5th least populated region in all of France, you understand quickly why there are no cars.

Eventually, those looking for the ‘new’ climb passed through the hamlet of Massat.  From here, they took the well-known Col de Port up to kilometer 6 before scratching their heads, searching their maps and asking locals if the narrow trail to the left is really the turn-off for the new Tour de France climb – the Col de Péguère?

Descending the Peguere

It’s understandable.  I had the same reaction the first time I saw it.  Covered in a thick canopy of wild trees , the Col de Péguère from the 6 km turn-off is 3.5 km of a paved tiny forest road with an increasingly steep vertical pitch.   There’s no room to drive up, no room to pass, no room for a Tour de France publicity caravanne and definitely no room to practice your ‘paper boy’ switchbacks to help you up.  In other words, it’s exactly what you’d expect of a perfect climb in the Ariege.

Ever since that first visit in 2003, I’ve returned every year either with groups or by myself.  It’s my jumping off point for the season in France where an endless day riding can easily slip into weeks.  Life is undoubtedly slow in the Ariege, much like my pedal stroke.  There are no trendy towns or chic resorts. Each unspoiled mountain hamlet boasts at least one B&B, one boulangerie and a coiffure.  Food is mountain hearty and delicious: local fish from the rivers, cassoulet, garden fresh salads and, of course, the duck, duck and…well…duck.

Not much has changed in the heart of the Ariege, Pyrenees in the last 10 years.  In fact, not much has changed since the Cathars were here in the 1200′s.  My French friend in Toulouse calls the Ariege ‘Third World’.  I call it a cycling mountain paradise of infinite proportions.  The Areige is best kept a secret to everyone except serious cyclists.  Let’s hope the  2012 Tour de France doesn’t change that.

Schleck on the Port de Bales

To experience the Ariege first hand on a supported trip with locals, join us for our 2012 Chasing the Tour trip starting on July 13^th.  We’ll be cycling up the Col de Peguere before the pros and taking in many of our other favorite unknown climbs in the region.

Details of the Ariege:

Location.  The Ariege is in the central Pyrenees of the southwest region of France bordering Spain.  It’s the 5th least populated department in France (out of 100).

Getting There.  Part of it’s special charm is its remoteness.  Fly into Toulouse and take the train to Foix or rent a car and drive to St. Girons.

Where to Stay:  You can easily spend 1-2 weeks in the Ariege and never ride the same climb twice.  I like to stay in the heart of the cycling near Massat, Oust, Ax-les-Thermes or the outskirts of Foix.  If you prefer softer, gentler stuff, stay near the town of Mirepoix.

What To Do:  In addition to cycling, there are endless hikes, walks, running trails and farmers markets to explore.

Staying Connected.  Cybercafes are non-existent.  Wifi has reached most of the remote regions and it’s best to bring your own computer/tablet if you want to stay connected.

Guides and Bike Rentals in the Pyrenees:   If you’d love to visit but can’t take our Tour de France bike tour in July, contact us and we can help you with local guides and bike rentals — julie@ridestrongbiketours.com.

First Ascent of Galbier 2003

I was dozing on the train to Grenoble when the enormity of the Alps filled the eastern window like an IMAX theatre screen. I’d cycled what seemed like half the world, but I’d never seen giants like these before. The mountains rose dramatically from a lush valley floor forming a natural ampitheatre of sharp peaks still doused in winter snow. Involuntarily, my throat went dry and quadriceps started twitching in nervous anticipation of riding the most famous line-up of Tour de France climbs: the Glandon, the Telegraphe, Col du Galiber, L’Alpe d’Huez and Col de la Croix de Fer.

It was mid-June and I was on one of my research trips to become intimately familiar with the iconic climbs of the high French Alps. Although I had studied all the profiles and heeded the warnings, nothing had prepared me for what my body and all my senses would encounter.

Most cyclists to this region, the Dauphine Alps, must at some point pass through the mountain village Bourg d’Oisans. In addition to hosting the start of the Tour de France 20 times+, Bourg serves as a summer vacation destination for cyclists with over half a dozen epic loop rides directly from the town. During summer, Bourg buzzes with cycling enthusiasts from around the world who meet for a morning croissant before tackling L’Alpe d’Huez or a post-ride beer.

While Bourg is the base, cyclists don’t linger long. Starting with the roosters, a group of local cyclists ride south for an easier day climbing Col de la Morte followed by the Col d’Ornon. Anxious first timers can be found sneaking out to get a head start spinning up the legendary, L’Alpe d’Huez. Clubs of local cyclists donning their team kits are seen all day long forming a pace line on the D1091 before turning right up the deceivingly difficult Col du Glandon followed by the Croix de Fer.

There’s something about being in the world capital of iconic climbs that gives all those who visit seemingly unlimited energy. After climbing what would tap out most mortals, cyclists head to the east side of the National Park where bigger challenges like the Col du Galibier (2645 m), Col de la Croix de Fer and Col de Madeleine await.

Fresh Mountain Berries for Dessert

Despite the star line-up of world class climbs, the French Alps remains surprisingly true to its mountain traditions. After a day in the saddle, most local auberges are serving up appertifs followed by La Tartiflette, a mouth-watering local specialty made with the cheese from the local farms. Desserts are rich with mountain berries, usually picked that afternoon.

Visitors like myself will undoubtedly check off the famous climbs first before discovering the ‘secret’ local cols that tempt you at every turn . It’s here I fell in love with the Alps and return every year.

Practical Information:

To get to the region:
Fly into Lyon and train or bus to Grenoble
Fly into Geneve and train or bus to Grenoble
Fly into Paris and train to Grenoble

Galibier Summit 2011 8:00 a.m.

Accomodations and Bases:

Grenoble:
We prefer to spend a few days on either end of the trip in Grenoble for a little French city life and a day ride into the stunning Chartreuse mountains.

Hotel Victoria – one of the least expensive best value hotels in town. Just a stone’s throw from the medieval center, the Hotel Victoria is simple, spotless and owned by an avid local cyclist and his friendly wife.

Hotel Mercure – slightly further from town but still within walking distance. One of the few hotels with modern amenities in the region. Comfort, gym and buffet breakfast.

Bourg d’Oisans region:
The first thing you need to know is that there are NO good hotels in the town of Bourg d’Oisans. None. Stay at one of the new chambres d’hotes just 2 km from town or in Allemont just 6 km down the road.