Typical road traffic - Pyrenees

There it is.  The word is officially out.  Nine years after my first cycling trip to the Ariege there it appears on the world cycling map in the 2012 Tour de France route!

It’s not the first time the Ariege region has featured in a Tour de France.  When it does, however, it usually passes through the obvious places…Foix, the Col de Port, St. Girons.  This time it’s different.  This time the ASO has introduced a little known climb, the Col de Péguère, into Stage 14 of the 2012 Tour de France route.  The Col du Peguere??!!  Most cycling pundits have never heard of it and even locals are unsure of  its whereabouts.

On October 18th, when the 2012 Tour de France route was announced, hundreds of folks critical to the sport drove, flew, trained and swarmed to the Ariege to see what this climb is all about.  On their way to the picturesque mountain hamlet of Massat, they likely followed the river up and past dozens upon dozens of tempting turn-offs for largely undiscovered climbs (e.g. the Col de Rille, Col de Saraille, Col de la Crouzette, Col des Jouels to name a few favorites).    It didn’t take them long to figure out that they were ‘discovering’ a special place for cycling that, until the announcement, remained largely off-the-beaten tourist path.

Most visitors and cyclists to the Pyrenees will focus on the famous passes — the Tourmalet, the Aubisque, the Col d’Aspin and maybe even Hautacam.  But further east, bordering Spain near Andorra, there is a vast network of tertiary roads boasting little known climbs that the local French cyclists (and people in the know) live for.  Being the 5th least populated region in all of France, you understand quickly why there are no cars.

Eventually, those looking for the ‘new’ climb passed through the hamlet of Massat.  From here, they took the well-known Col de Port up to kilometer 6 before scratching their heads, searching their maps and asking locals if the narrow trail to the left is really the turn-off for the new Tour de France climb – the Col de Péguère?

Descending the Peguere

It’s understandable.  I had the same reaction the first time I saw it.  Covered in a thick canopy of wild trees , the Col de Péguère from the 6 km turn-off is 3.5 km of a paved tiny forest road with an increasingly steep vertical pitch.   There’s no room to drive up, no room to pass, no room for a Tour de France publicity caravanne and definitely no room to practice your ‘paper boy’ switchbacks to help you up.  In other words, it’s exactly what you’d expect of a perfect climb in the Ariege.

Ever since that first visit in 2003, I’ve returned every year either with groups or by myself.  It’s my jumping off point for the season in France where an endless day riding can easily slip into weeks.  Life is undoubtedly slow in the Ariege, much like my pedal stroke.  There are no trendy towns or chic resorts. Each unspoiled mountain hamlet boasts at least one B&B, one boulangerie and a coiffure.  Food is mountain hearty and delicious: local fish from the rivers, cassoulet, garden fresh salads and, of course, the duck, duck and…well…duck.

Not much has changed in the heart of the Ariege, Pyrenees in the last 10 years.  In fact, not much has changed since the Cathars were here in the 1200′s.  My French friend in Toulouse calls the Ariege ‘Third World’.  I call it a cycling mountain paradise of infinite proportions.  The Areige is best kept a secret to everyone except serious cyclists.  Let’s hope the  2012 Tour de France doesn’t change that.

Schleck on the Port de Bales

To experience the Ariege first hand on a supported trip with locals, join us for our 2012 Chasing the Tour trip starting on July 13^th.  We’ll be cycling up the Col de Peguere before the pros and taking in many of our other favorite unknown climbs in the region.

Details of the Ariege:

Location.  The Ariege is in the central Pyrenees of the southwest region of France bordering Spain.  It’s the 5th least populated department in France (out of 100).

Getting There.  Part of it’s special charm is its remoteness.  Fly into Toulouse and take the train to Foix or rent a car and drive to St. Girons.

Where to Stay:  You can easily spend 1-2 weeks in the Ariege and never ride the same climb twice.  I like to stay in the heart of the cycling near Massat, Oust, Ax-les-Thermes or the outskirts of Foix.  If you prefer softer, gentler stuff, stay near the town of Mirepoix.

What To Do:  In addition to cycling, there are endless hikes, walks, running trails and farmers markets to explore.

Staying Connected.  Cybercafes are non-existent.  Wifi has reached most of the remote regions and it’s best to bring your own computer/tablet if you want to stay connected.

Guides and Bike Rentals in the Pyrenees:   If you’d love to visit but can’t take our Tour de France bike tour in July, contact us and we can help you with local guides and bike rentals — julie@ridestrongbiketours.com.

First Ascent of Galbier 2003

I was dozing on the train to Grenoble when the enormity of the Alps filled the eastern window like an IMAX theatre screen. I’d cycled what seemed like half the world, but I’d never seen giants like these before. The mountains rose dramatically from a lush valley floor forming a natural ampitheatre of sharp peaks still doused in winter snow. Involuntarily, my throat went dry and quadriceps started twitching in nervous anticipation of riding the most famous line-up of Tour de France climbs: the Glandon, the Telegraphe, Col du Galiber, L’Alpe d’Huez and Col de la Croix de Fer.

It was mid-June and I was on one of my research trips to become intimately familiar with the iconic climbs of the high French Alps. Although I had studied all the profiles and heeded the warnings, nothing had prepared me for what my body and all my senses would encounter.

Most cyclists to this region, the Dauphine Alps, must at some point pass through the mountain village Bourg d’Oisans. In addition to hosting the start of the Tour de France 20 times+, Bourg serves as a summer vacation destination for cyclists with over half a dozen epic loop rides directly from the town. During summer, Bourg buzzes with cycling enthusiasts from around the world who meet for a morning croissant before tackling L’Alpe d’Huez or a post-ride beer.

While Bourg is the base, cyclists don’t linger long. Starting with the roosters, a group of local cyclists ride south for an easier day climbing Col de la Morte followed by the Col d’Ornon. Anxious first timers can be found sneaking out to get a head start spinning up the legendary, L’Alpe d’Huez. Clubs of local cyclists donning their team kits are seen all day long forming a pace line on the D1091 before turning right up the deceivingly difficult Col du Glandon followed by the Croix de Fer.

There’s something about being in the world capital of iconic climbs that gives all those who visit seemingly unlimited energy. After climbing what would tap out most mortals, cyclists head to the east side of the National Park where bigger challenges like the Col du Galibier (2645 m), Col de la Croix de Fer and Col de Madeleine await.

Fresh Mountain Berries for Dessert

Despite the star line-up of world class climbs, the French Alps remains surprisingly true to its mountain traditions. After a day in the saddle, most local auberges are serving up appertifs followed by La Tartiflette, a mouth-watering local specialty made with the cheese from the local farms. Desserts are rich with mountain berries, usually picked that afternoon.

Visitors like myself will undoubtedly check off the famous climbs first before discovering the ‘secret’ local cols that tempt you at every turn . It’s here I fell in love with the Alps and return every year.

Practical Information:

To get to the region:
Fly into Lyon and train or bus to Grenoble
Fly into Geneve and train or bus to Grenoble
Fly into Paris and train to Grenoble

Galibier Summit 2011 8:00 a.m.

Accomodations and Bases:

Grenoble:
We prefer to spend a few days on either end of the trip in Grenoble for a little French city life and a day ride into the stunning Chartreuse mountains.

Hotel Victoria – one of the least expensive best value hotels in town. Just a stone’s throw from the medieval center, the Hotel Victoria is simple, spotless and owned by an avid local cyclist and his friendly wife.

Hotel Mercure – slightly further from town but still within walking distance. One of the few hotels with modern amenities in the region. Comfort, gym and buffet breakfast.

Bourg d’Oisans region:
The first thing you need to know is that there are NO good hotels in the town of Bourg d’Oisans. None. Stay at one of the new chambres d’hotes just 2 km from town or in Allemont just 6 km down the road.